Energy Advice Urban Myths or
Simple Truths? (or everything you wanted to know
about saving energy but were afraid to ask!)
Here are 10 popular hints on how to save
energy - or perhaps they are misleading advice that could end up
costing the earth! Ian Byrne, the Foundation's Deputy Director, has
been collecting popular wisdom about ways to save energy for several
years, and has come up with some surprising answers...
1. It uses less energy if you leave
fluorescent lights switched on
1. It uses less energy if you leave fluorescent
lights switched on
MYTH
This
one has been around almost since fluorescent (strip) lights first
appeared. It is certainly true that in their start-up phase, they
use a lot more energy than when they are running continuously, so it
is not a good advice to keep switching them on or off. But if you
are going out of a room for short time, how long should you be away
before it makes more sense to switch the light off, rather than
leaving it on?
The answer may surprise many people. Although
it depends on several factors, including whether it has an
electronic or mechanical (condenser) starter, the period is
generally in the region of a minute and a half, and never more than
5 minutes. Modern fluorescent lights, with narrower tubes (T8 or
T15) and electronic starters generally should left on unnecessarily
for no more than a minute or so.
Consider the current being
used in a 40W strip light. Suppose also that it was being left on
for 24 hours - in which case it would use 0.96kWh (almost a unit of
electricity). Now if it didn't save money to switch this off, it
would have to use the equivalent amount of energy in the start-up
phase. Typically this last no more than 3 seconds. A light using
energy at the rate of 0.96kWh in 3 seconds on a 240V supply would be
drawing, in simple terms, around 4,800 Amps - enough to fuse not
just the lighting circuit, but also the electricity sub-station!
2. Use less power - take a shower!
Sometimes a Myth, but sometimes
True
The Government pushed this one heavily in the mid-1990s; I
have a nice badge showing a dinosaur taking a shower. But in
practice the answer is a lot more complex. The easiest way to
test this out is to put the plug in the bath next time you
have a shower, and see how much it fills up. If, at the end of
the shower, there is less water than you would usually have in
a bath, then you will probably save money by taking a shower.
But it's not quite that simple...
The simple answer assumes that you are using the same source to
heat water for the bath and the shower. This will be the case if you
are using your central heating boiler or an immersion heater. But a
lot of British homes have a "Power Shower" that uses electricity to
provide a powerful and instant shower. Not only do they use water
more quickly than a shower fed from a hot water system, they also
use on-peak electricity that costs around 7p a unit, compared to 2p
for gas. At this point it gets complicated, as to give a firm answer
you would also need to know the efficiency of your heating boiler,
the amount of insulation on the hot water tank and the losses on the
pipework between the tank and your shower.
In fact, it may
not make any difference either way, if you are using the central
heating boiler to warm the water. For in most cases, especially in
summer, we leave the boiler on for a fixed period of time, allowing
it to heat up the tank of water. If the bath or shower is drawn off
after the end of a water heating period, it will not affect the
heating cost on the day it was used (for that has already happened)
but on the next heating cycle. And if the tanks cools down then it
will not be significantly affected by how much hot water was used
after the previous cycle.
3. It's wisest to leave your immersion heater
on 24 hours a day
MYTH
This
one is easy. It is always best to place the water heating on a
timer, as the energy lost from a hot water tank depends on the
temperature difference between the surface of the tank and its
surroundings. It's a common myth that it somehow takes more energy
to keep heating up a tank than to maintain it at a high temperature.
Of course, as with all the urban myths on this page, there
are a few "ifs" and "buts". If the tank is highly insulated (so
standing losses are very low) and there is an effective thermostat
on the tank, then the losses through leaving it on can be much
reduced. And some people have a need for large quantities of hot
water all day long, in which case they may have no alternative to
leaving the immersion heater on. But in general, it is much better
to install a timer - a heavy duty one, suitable for immersion
heaters, should cost less than £20 and if you can fit it yourself
safely, could pay for itself in a few months: an excellent energy
efficiency investment.
4. If you have Thermostatic Radiator Valves you
don't need a Room Thermostat
MYTH
This
idea became quite widespread about 15 years ago, when it was being
supported by an official government institution. However it's not
true.
Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs) will only switch
the flow to a single radiator on or off. They do not stop the boiler
from firing (and so using energy). They are useful, but tend to be a
rather crude control of temperature in a room, as they are affected
by siting (please don't put the sofa directly in front of them!) and
are often not set at the right temperature.
In contrast a
room thermostat is accurate to within a degree or so. What's more,
if it has been wired up correctly (in what may be called an
"interlock") it should send a signal back to the boiler to switch
itself off if there is no demand for heating for either the heating
or hot water circuits. This stops the boiler firing when the
internal water temperature has slipped - ie. it stops so-called "dry
cycling", and definitely saves energy.
There are other
advantages to modern room thermostats. They can contain an optimum
start temperature sensor, which delays the boiler firing on
relatively mild days, again saving energy. And if combined into full
zone control, they can set different temperatures for different
floors of a home - meaning that living rooms can be snug, without
over-heating bedrooms.
One final warning: don't put a TRV on
a radiator close to the room thermostat, as the TRV's operation will
mislead the room stat. For more information about TRVs and room
thermostats, please look at our controls
page.
5. It's cheaper to use an immersion heater in
the summer than to heat water from your central heating
boiler
Sometimes a Myth, but
sometimes True
Maybe from your boiler, but not from mine! The answer to this one
depends very much on how efficient your boiler is, especially when
it is operating at part load, as it does in summer when there is no
central heating demand. Broadly, if you have a modern high
efficiency boiler (say rated 'D' or better on the SEDBUK scale)
linked to a hot water tank thermostat, then it will be better to use
the boiler to heat water, year round. But, providing you have a
timer and well-insulated tank, it may be cheaper to use the electric
immersion heater in summer if your boiler is not a high efficiency
model.
Recently, a number of people have picked up on this,
believing it to be a problem that only affects condensing boilers.
They point out that in summer, when the boiler is only heating
water, it operates at part load and does not normally enter
condensing mode. "Aha!" they say, "in that case it must be wrong to
use a condensing boiler only for water heating." Actually, that's
not true. They are right to point out that the boiler may not be in
condensing mode, but even so the larger (or second) heat exchanger
unit in a condensing boiler still means that it will operate at a
higher efficiency than a conventional boiler (unless it has a very
high internal thermal mass). So a condensing boiler is still likely
to be cheaper to run than a conventional one in summer. The
Government's A-G boiler energy rating (SEDBUK) is based on average
seasonal efficiencies, and takes into account the lesser
performance of boilers in summer, so an "A" rated boiler will use
less fuel over the year than a "B" rated one, and so on...
6. Replacing windows with double glazing will
stop mould growth
Usually True but
sometimes causes problems
We've all seen the
adverts showing how double glazed homes are warmer and healthier,
with less mould. This is true, providing they are also adequately
ventilated, and can maintain a reasonable room temperature.
Ventilation is the key; if a home is too airtight, moisture (from
baths & showers, cooking and even breathing!) will stay inside
the house and create a damp atmosphere in which mould can grow. For
this reason, good double glazed units include trickle vents that be
used to add controlled ventilation. Be careful about selecting
double glazed units that have metal (aluminium) frames; if they do
not have a very good thermal break, you are likely to get some
condensation on the metal, even though there will be none on the
glass itself.
There were major problems a few years ago in a
large Scottish city, when the local council installed double glazing
in some of its tenants' flats. Unfortunately they could not afford
to improve the heating at the same time, and the residents kept
their expensive to run old-style storage heaters. The result should
have been predictable; low internal temperatures, together with cold
walls (the flats were unsuitable for cavity wall insulation) and
reduced air flows, led to a huge increase in damp and mould. What
was worse, many tenants were drying damp clothes inside their flats,
as there had been a spate of thefts from balconies and the
designated drying rooms.
Of course, in a properly heated
home, modern low-E double glazing (to the latest FENSA standards) will save energy
and make you feel more comfortable.
7. Strapping on a gizmo to your boiler can save
you at least 10% from your heating bills
MYTH
Ten years
ago, there were a lot of high-pressure salesmen selling "Boiler
Energy Managers" with this claim. (I know; I bought one.) But you
could make the same savings by switching off your boiler for 10% of
the time, and that is what most of these domestic boiler energy
managers did. If they are fitted by the manufacturer, then they will
save money, but retrofitted the same effect can often be achieved by
turning down the thermostat by a degree or so. Both delay the firing
of the central heating system. Modern boilers and with good controls
should not need an additional strap-on energy manager.
So
the salesmen have moved on to another product - the magnetic ring
that aligns the gas molecules and achieves amazing improvements in
boiler efficiency. Well, I would be amazed if these worked as well
as they are claimed to, as in some cases they would end up giving
boilers more than 100% efficiency. Preliminary investigations by
Government scientists suggest the claims are just hot air - I expect
that by the time we know for certain, the salesmen will be selling
us something else again...
On the other hand, there is
evidence that strap-on devices designed to stop scale forming in hot
water pipes may be effective in hard water areas. These apparently
work by precipitating out limescale into microscopic particles that
stay suspended in the hot water, rather than coalescing as scale on
the walls of the pipe. It's not clear how much energy they can save
(and it's unlikely to be anywhere near 10%), but hopefully there
will be independent test results available in the near future.
8. Big freezers cost more to run than little
freezers
Usually True, but
not always
In one sense this is obviously
going to be true. But in practice, it often isn't! Small freezers
are often upright models, which lose a significant amount of cold
air whenever the door is opened. (It can take as much as 30 minutes
for a freezer to regain its temperature are a door has been opened
for a minute.) Chest freezers, with a lid opening - and typically
thicker insulation levels - will often use only less half as much
energy for a given volume of food storage. So a 4.5 cu.ft (125
litre) upright freezer will often use more energy than a 9 cu.ft
(250 litre) chest model. And if you have empty space in either type
of freezer, it's best to fill it, either with empty cardboard boxes
(breakfast cereal packets are ideal) to stop air flow, or with
loaves of sliced bread!
9. Leaving your PC screen switched on during
the lunch break prolongs its life and doesn't waste much
energy
MYTH (mainly)
First things first. Leaving the screen on over lunch may
prolong the life in theory, but in practice how many office PC
screens are thrown away because they have broken down, and how
many because they have become superseded by more modern
technology?
So how much energy will be saved if screens are switched off? The
answer is "enough". Whilst in operation, most CRTs (cathode ray
tubes, not the more expensive flat screen type) use between 30W and
200W. Oddly, smaller 14inch screens often use as much power as 17
inch screens. In even a medium-sized office, this is going to add up
to a fair amount of energy being used. Of course many PCs will go
into sleep mode if they are not being used, but do not assume this
will happen. Screens do not use less energy when they are in screen
saver mode (that's just designed to stop the phosphor coating being
damaged), and even when they power down into sleep mode (typically
after more than 20 minutes) they still use some energy.
PC screen consumption can often represent at least a third of the
electricity consumption in a modern office. Most of the wasted
energy is given off as heat, and in an air-conditioned office half
as much energy again can be used in getting rid of this waste heat
in summer.
10. "With global warming we won't need as much
insulation in the future"
MYTH
This quote
is attributed to an MP. It's wrong for several reasons:
Global Climate Change will not provide a nice even increase in
temperature. It's likely to be accompanied by greater instability
in weather, so homes will need just as much insulation to deal
with cold spells.
The most likely effect in the UK is to shorten the heating
season slightly, not to reduce the need for heating altogether.
Global warming will not happen overnight. It's expected to
take around 50 years for the temperature to rise by another 2°C.
Some scientists are concerned that melting icecaps will lead
to the Gulf Stream shutting off or changing course, with a
significant cooling effect for Britain and Europe.
Even if global warming were to benefit the UK, it's rather
irresponsible to encourage it when it is likely to have severe
adverse effects in other parts of the world.
Conclusion
So that's 5 myths and 5 ideas for which there is at least a grain
of truth. Energy saving at home and in the office need not be
difficult, but we all need to think just a little more sometimes
before acting on received wisdom. This website offers a number of
practical suggestions for low cost
and free
ways to save energy, as well as a comprehensive range of energy
saving measures and a free self completion Home
Energy Check.